Ripple crochet

Ripple crochet. Pretty, easy, classic. What's not to love?

I have two problems with it. The first is that the blanket is made in a unit. And I like portable projects, so I can work on them while waiting for trains and such.

If you like portable projects too, then a queen size ripple crochet may not be the ideal project for you. May I suggest granny squares? They are definitely portable for most of the project.

The second problem is the foundation chain. Theoretically easy: chain a multiple of 13 plus 1, sc in the third chain from the hook... and you're on your way.

That works well if you can count. When I'm getting into the number of stitches needed for a blanket, I tend to lose count. It's frustrating, especially since I know the pattern is smooth sailing after the first two or three rows: the pattern becomes clear, and you just follow along.

My suggestion? Stitch markers. Zillions of them. Three per zigzag, and a few extra. You can use official split ring stitch markers or safety pins or paper clips or bobby pins or whatever works, really. You just want something to mark the stitch that you can remove easily afterward.

With that in mind, here are my

Instructions for Ripple Crochet

Supplies:
Yarn
Hook
Stitch markers (for a swatch, you'll need 10 or so, for a full blanket... 50? 60? 100?)

Foundation chain:

Make a slip knot.
Chain 1.
Insert a stitch marker in the chain you just made.
Chain 6.
Insert a stitch marker in the last chain you made.
Chain 7.
Insert a stitch marker in each of the last two chains you made.
Look at your chain: you should have 14 chains, and there should be one stitch marker in the chain nearest the slip knot, 5 unmarked chains, 1 stitch marker in the next chain, 5 more unmarked chains, and 2 chains with one stitch marker each in them.
Repeat steps 4 through 7 until you think your foundation chain is almost wide enough. (It'll draw in, so make it wider than you want the finished blanket to be.)
Chain 6.
Insert a stitch marker in the last chain you made.
Chain 5.
Insert a stitch marker in the last chain you made.
Chain 2.

This is your foundation chain. If you look at it, it will look something like this (o indicates a chain, \ is the yarn connected to the ball, ._ is the slip knot and tail, and | is a stitch marker):
\ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo._
| | || | || | || | |

Now this is much easier for me than counting 131 or 154 or 307 stitches.

All I have to do is count to 1, 2, and 5. The stitch markers alternate between groups of two and groups of one, except on the two ends of the foundation chain, where there are two groups of one with no group of two separating them. If that overall pattern (1121212...1211) is there, then all I have to do is count the chains between the marked stitches. And there should be 5 of them between each stitch marker area, except for the very last one, since the turning chain will count as a sc.

At that point, it's time to start...

Row 1:

Sc into the third chain from the hook. It's the one with the stitch marker in it.
Remove the stitch marker
Place the stitch marker into the sc you just made
Work one sc into each chain until you reach the next stitch marker
This stitch marker is a single, and it's not on the ends of the work, so you'll work 3sc into that marked chain
Remove the stitch marker, and put it into the middle sc of that 3sc group.
Work one sc into each chain until you reach the next stitch marker
This stitch marker is the first of a double, so you won't work sc into either of those marked chains. Work a sc into the first chain after the second stitch marker.
Remove the stitch markers, and put one into each of the last two sc you made (one before the gap, one after)
Repeat steps 4 through 9 until you reach the last set of double markers
Repeat steps 4 through 7 once more. You should now be at the last stitch marker.
sc into that last stitch. Remove the marker, and put it into the second-to-last sc you made.
Chain 1
Turn the work

At this point, the pattern is almost set. The main difference in row 2 is that you will be working into sc, not chains. Also, ripple crochet blankets are traditionally worked in the back loop only. It gives a lovely ridged effect which is a good part of the charm of the blanket.

Row 2:

Sc into the second sc. It's the one with the stitch marker in it.
Remove the stitch marker
Place the stitch marker into the sc you just made
Work one sc into each sc until you reach the next stitch marker
This stitch marker is a single, and it's not on the ends of the work, so you'll work 3sc into that marked sc
Remove the stitch marker, and put it into the middle sc of that 3sc group.
Work one sc into each sc until you reach the next stitch marker
This stitch marker is the first of a double, so you won't work sc into either of those marked sc. Work a sc into the first sc after the second stitch marker.
Remove the stitch markers, and put one into each of the last two sc you made (one before the gap, one after)
Repeat steps 4 through 9 until you reach the last set of double markers
Repeat steps 4 through 7 once more. You should now be at the last stitch marker.
sc into that last stitch. Remove the marker, and put it into the second-to-last sc you made.
Chain 1
Turn the work

Repeat Row 2 until the blanket is long enough. In the last row, you won't do the final chain-1-and-turn, but that's the only change to the pattern. Of course, you can change colors as you want: every row, every 2 rows, randomly, not at all. You can also change the size of the ripples. In my example, I used 5 stitches between markers, but if you want to use 3 or 4 or 6 or 7, that's fine too. Swatch it, and if you like it, go for it. It's up to you!